"Lloyd Bourinot used to talk about 'sniffing the coast,' but I had never seen it done before. Down-east skippers, groping through the fog, used every piece of evidence to confirm their position - the character of the seaweed, the directions the birds flew, the smell of fish plants and spruce woods, of smokestacks and hayfields and guano. If you smelt chocolate in Halifax Harbour, you were near the Moir's factory on Duke Street."

The summer of 1992 was foggy, cold and calm. As Silver Donald and his late wife Lulu (who died in 1996) made a 600-mile voyage in the Gulf of St. Lawrence aboard their engineless cutter Silversark, they used every trick they knew - including sniffing the coast. [more]

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